My last day in Prague. Jemma and I eat breakfast at a cafe she recommends by her apartment in Wenceslas Square. At breakfast we ate crepes and drank hot chocolate and talked about books again, travel, university, death and taxes. After breakfast, there is an awkward goodbye and mutual wishes of ‘best of luck.’
I leave the cafe and start walking back toward my hostel. As I pass through Wenceslas Square, I see city workers taking down the shops and stalls of the Christmas market that sets up shop over the winter holidays. Then, I reach Old Town Square and see the usual group of tourists at a standstill outside the astronomical clock. ‘It must be close to the hour,’ I think as I walk on past disinterested. As is true when I return to my hostel from anywhere in Prague, I reach Charles Bridge, the iconic symbol of ancient Prague and the great ruler of the Czechs.
As is true with any other day, the bridge is teeming with tourist photograhpers, artists selling caricatures and musical acts. But, as I’ve been here a week, I’m all used to this now. As I cross the bridge, my hand does not reach for my camera, nor do I stop to listen to the Bridge Band. Rather, I walk, drifting past the tourists and local peddlers, intent on reaching, and subsequently leaving, what has been my home for the past week.
Along this walk the 59th Street Bridge song bounces into my head. Always up for some Simon & Garfunkel, I submit to its catchy tune and begin humming it in my head. I’m not exactly sure, but I may have been singing it softly, “Slow down, you move too fast, you’ve gotta make the morning last.” As I was quite literally, “kicking down the cobblestones,” I paused on the bridge and looked out on to the river, and began to reflect on this week that I was now to conclude.
I started by assessing my immediate circumstances: ‘what was I doing?’ I was walking back home from meeting a friend that lives in Prague. The more I thought about it, I liked it. And, by the end of the week, I had several friends that lived in Prague. Furthermore, I met many people touring Prague for a couple days, and I had watched them go, only to meet new travellers and get to know them.
As I thought more about my week, it all seemed fitting that it was now to come to a close. I was not a local, but I knew local things like street names and bar staff. I knew where New Town and Old Town were, and what separated them. I knew where the Jewish Quarter was and I yet I also knew the history that I learned on a walking tour of Prague. I had just finished reading my Kafka novel, bought from a local used book store. Some other native of Prague had read it first. I knew that I was not a local, that I was inescapably a tourist. But, I didn’t feel like one.
I stopped staring out onto the river like an idiot and picked back up, heading lazily in the direction of my hostel. As I am walking, Paul Simon’s lyrics bounced back in my head. “I’ve got no deeds to do, no promises to keep. I’m dappled and drowsy and ready to sleep, let the morning time drop all its petals on me. Life, I love you, all is groovy.”
My residence in Prague was over. I grabbed my bag from my hostel and checked out. A short tram ride, a fifteen minute bus and I was back at Prague airport, this time looking different and less ominous in the daytime.
At the airport, after check in with Wizz Air, I grabbed a seat, opened my journal, clicked my pen and began to write. A usual entry of mine, consists of 3-4 pages, but as I sat, waiting for my plane, pages came pouring out of me. I had written almost daily throughout the week, but, as I was reaching for these culminating thoughts, I needed more time and more space. If I looked odd staring out into nothing on the bridge, I was pretty sure I was equally suspicious in the airport. My face was pressed inches from my journal, which was rested on my lap. Either I looked as if I was writing the next great American novel or I had severe back spasms.
I wrote about it all. I wrote about Jamie and Dylan and their dreams. I wrote about mine to come. I wrote about Jemma, and I wrote down ‘Read ‘On the Road.’ (I’m now halfway through it). I wrote about drinking beer, getting high and I wrote about thinking. For, as Prague was such a new place, thinking became a pastime all in itself. It was its own recreational drug. Prague changed the way I thought, Europeanized it, and, while it lasted, I thought: ‘Wow, this is pretty cool.’ My high was over, but it had begun to give me the cravings and I wrote about plans of getting my fix. I wrote that I knew what Europe was now, the Europe that doesn't span the shores of the English Channel, and that I knew absolutely nothing about the place. I wrote that became wiser by learning of my ignorance. I wrote about my travels when I was younger, but how the first time I really went to Europe was about a week ago.
All of this I wrote down, line after line, page after page. As I was just about to close up my journal with my usual sign off, used for both journal and blog (... LW), I get a text from Jemma. It was a quote from (you guessed it) On the Road, I begin to laugh, but read it, curiously:
But why think about that when all the golden land’s ahead of you and all kinds of unforeseen events wait lurking to surprise you and make you glad you’re alive to see?
As I boarded a Wizz Air plane for the second time, with utmost caution, (as a younger man, I might have crossed myself) I thought more about the quote. Prague may have been just a week, and I may have remembered all of it, but as the plane took off and I left Czech ground, I was glad it happened. It was the small surprises of everything along the way that made this trip and assured me that until Europe has sunk into the sea or been wiped out by a nuclear holocaust, there will indeed by more surprises on this continent to come my way. And, when they do, I’ll be glad I’m alive to see them ... LW